Mae Fah Luang Museum

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  Shoals of pink fish surge under visitors on the boardwalk of the giant Mae Fah Luang Lake in this unique and beautiful 21-hectare facility created by Her Royal Highness the late Princess Mother, mother of His Majesty King Bhumipol Adulyadej.

  Close to the heart of Chiang Rai city, this lovely parkland was purchased by the Princess in 1977 to expand the work of a foundation, born in a small local office 5 years before, to benefit hill tribe people. In 1985, re-organization embraced sustainable development, health facilities, and vocational training in agriculture, crafts, and continuity of tribal traditions.

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  Now, visitors benefit from the expanded role of museum and conservation center in the form of two large, totally contrasting halls. Haw Kham (Golden Pavilion) is a huge, golden teak construction cleverly designed for maximum ventilation and minimum humidity. Approaching up the steps past ten stone elephants from Burma, one marvels at the 17th-century figure of Phra Pra Toh suspended from the ceiling. A simple carving from Phrae, resembling a Native American totem pole figure, the image’s unusual appearance, explains the excellent English-speaking guide is because the people only had one knife.

  Warm red, lacquered, bamboo bowls for floral offerings to monks in Chiang Mai sit close to a golden Buddha from Burma, while down below is a floor of white sand surrounded by large, rounded stones.

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  “The sand actually absorbs moisture to protect the wood, but we also say the sand is the people and the Buddha up above protects them” says the guide.

  Past rare northern foliage and pools of fish and frogs, one walks to the large, modern, white Haw Kham Noi (Small Golden Pavilion) building and another rich collection: a horse-drawn, wooden carriage is close to an ornate Mon coffin; a huge medicine chest; agricultural carts and implements; bellows for melting silver; spinning wheels and shuttles; and dug-out, timber boats made from whole tree trunks. On the walls is Thailand’s largest collection of art from the Lanna culture which is changed at regular intervals.